I've just finished reading "As Always, Julia," a compilation of the letters by food historian Joan Reardon between Julia Child and her great friend and editor, Avis Devoto.
The book, a birthday present from my friend Laura, is an engaging read and is available in NZ from fishpond, here. Mine looks a bit dog-eared above, having been dragged on a few recent trips.
The friendship happened after Julia wrote to Bernard Devoto to comment on an article he'd written for Harper's about cooking knives. He passed the letter over to his wife Avis for a reply. The two women began corresponding, becoming friends and lifelong confidantes.
The letters, which span from 1952 up to Avis' death in 1989, chronicle the writing and evolution of what became "Mastering the Art of French Cooking," a culinary blockbuster when it was (finally) published and ever since. The writing of the cookbook took Julia years, involving two french partners and extensive research and testing (and re-testing). Avis played a critical role in presenting the book to publishers, as well as providing input on content and relevance given the post war changes that were happening quickly in the US at the time.
What was more interesting to me were the social and business circles the two women ran in, along with their diverse interests and political views (McCarthy was on his witch hunt for communists during this time period).
Julia was most often overseas and it was Avis who kept her posted on current trends, books/magazine articles, and political developments. And most importantly, what was available or unavailable in food stores and butcher shops in the U.S. Hard to believe that fresh herbs (and sometimes dried herbs) were not available in the 1950's! Julia would have helped change all that.
So in honor of Julia, a Smith College alum like me, it's going to be "Just Desserts" this week. If I had more time I would have chosen chicken, which seems to have been a particular obsession of hers, but I'll have to save that for another time.
The recipes won't be hers, just the inspiration. And yes, I've seen "Julie and Julia."
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